Over the next few decades, other countries established their own safety standards and proof houses, along with their own unique marks.
Guns that passed testing were stamped with a mark representing the proof house. The London Gunmakers Company set up a “proof house” in London, and not surprisingly… firearms makers who were not part of a guild tended to fail testing more often than the guild members. In 1637, after heavy lobbying from the London Gunmakers Company, a London-area firearms guild, King Charles I issued a Royal Charter setting firearms safety standards. The first proof marks started appearing in 15th century France, and by the 17th century, European firearms guildsmen were heavily promoting their use - and lobbying their governments for laws requiring them - primarily to dissuade competition from non-guildsmen and scare potential purchasers away from un-proofed guns. But like many government regulations, their origins have more to do with self-interest than safety. In modern years, they truly do serve that purpose. Proof marks are stamps embedded in certain parts of a firearm following (and sometimes during, depending on the firearm type) its manufacturing to indicate that the firearm has been “proven” to be able to handle the specific type of ammunition for which it was designed. And even if you’re already familiar with proof marks, maybe this article can broaden your knowledge and teach you something new. After 4-1256, there are 36″ and 46″/45″ widths.If you’ve heard someone mention proof marks or date codes when discussing a SIG Sauer pistol, but weren’t quite sure what those were, then the goal of this article is to bring you up to speed. Up to 4-1256, there are 36″ and 42″ weaving width floor looms. On older looms, the serial number may be on the castle side. The serial number can be found in the middle of the cross brace under the shafts at the front of the loom.
W = Walnut Mighty Wolf Sequential Serial Numbers The serial number can be found underneath the Schacht logo on the cross brace under the shafts at the front of the loom.ĤNow-4Later looms are numbered in the 4- series. On older looms, the serial number may be on the castle side if you added a high castle tray, you may need to remove the tray to find the serial number.Īfter September 1987, the serial number is the date of assembly (mmddyy.)ĤNow-4Later Looms are numbered in the 4- series. The serial number can be found underneath the Schacht logo on the cross brace under the shafts at the front of the loom. The serial number is the date of assembly (mmddyy.) Baby Wolf: The serial number is the date of assembly (mmddyy.) Wolf Pup 8.10: The serial number can be found on the top side of the cross brace underneath the shafts, to the left. Examples:ġ22214-WPLT-1 = 1st Wolf Pup LT assembled on December 22, 2014.Ġ82818-FL8-LC-2 = 2nd Standard Floor Loom assembled on August 28, 2018, with 8 shafts and a low castle. You’ll find tables below matching serial numbers to the year a loom was built.Īfter September 1987, serial numbers indicate the date of assembly as MMDDYY, the type of loom, (for some looms) other characteristics indicated below, and where the loom fitted in that day’s building sequence. Through September 1987, serial numbers were sequential. Hold a flashlight to one side of the castle or cross brace and shine it across, not directly on, the numbers. Serial numbers are pressed into the wood and can be hard to see. If your loom was built prior to about mid-1979, it is possible that it does not have a serial number. Some very early looms were not assigned serial numbers. Especially for older equipment, we can’t effectively help you without this information. Before you contact us, verify the type of loom and have the serial number ready. We’re happy to help you with any problems you may have with your Schacht equipment.